In “The Cooking Gene,” culinary historian Michael Twitty sends his reader on a tantalizing journey starting at the kitchen table, leading his readers all the way to the cotton fields of Virginia and the plantations of North Carolina. He captures his audience by centralizing the topic of southern cuisine which depicts to the reader a splendidly vivid image of the traditional origins of a style of cooking rooted in African American culture. Remarkably, Twitty finds a brilliant fluidity that perfectly weaves cooking methods of the Old South to historical research and and customs of the antiquated past, in relationship to gender, race, religion, and politics.

I appreciate Twitty’s efforts and findings on what sometimes feels like the forgotten past. From slave ships to slave trade, from plantations to house maids, and from systemic marginalization of people of color, particularly those of African descent, it is easy to describe African American History as a never-ending crisis of disenfranchisement and slaughtering of natural born rights, but this isn’t the approach that Twitty takes to describe the rich history of African Americans.

Twitty takes the high road. He uses colorful narration of foods and his personal journeys within the Old South that forages a spiritual connection between history and the present. In chapter 17 of his book Twitty stands in a cotton field and states ,“ I wish you could see the cotton fields. The bolls are just opening. I cannot compare their appearance to anything but fields of white roses.”  The spiritual soul of the South is romanticized and brought to life by prolific food recipes and the beautiful renditions of customary practices like singing hymns while cooking.  It isn’t often that African American history is portrayed in this fashion. Twitty recognizes the beauty of his past despite the circumstances. He sees strength and quality of the efforts put forth by those who came before him and also recognizes that his ancestry lacks singularity. There is an intersectionality amongst ethnicity,  being that Twitty’s ancestors are African, Native American, and European.

Twitty also identifies himself as a gay African American man, and I find that this book speaks to the spiritual and personal self-discovery that took place in his life upon discovering his historical roots. We find that history has so many overlapping tendencies and for this fact, history is beautiful and must be appreciated. This book is for those seeking to master their down home southern cooking and desiring a detailed, intimate portrayal of Southern American history from a widespread, understanding, and simply captivating perspective.

This review was provided courtesy of Busboys and Poets Bookseller Carlantha Roberts. Be sure to catch Michael Twitty at our upcoming event on December 10th at 5th and K.

The Making of Busboys and Poets

A Seat at the Table: The Making of Busboys and Poets

We’re proud to announce A Seat at the Table: The Making of Busboys and Poets, the new memoir from our CEO and Founder, which reveals the vision, challenges, and triumphs behind opening Busboys and Poets. Packed with misadventures, unexpected triumphs, and insights on race, business and politics, Andy Shallal’s memoir takes us on a “How I Built … Continued

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For Langston Hughes on His 123 Birthday

Speech given on February 1, 2024 in Havana, Cuba In 1927 Langston Hughes walked into a Cuba amid an emerging community of artists, intellectuals, and radicals.  He saw a “sunrise in a new land [– a day – in his words]sic – full of brownskin surprises, and hitherto unknown contacts in a world of color.”  … Continued

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Palestine Week 2024

January 18, 2024 – January 25, 2024 In keeping with our ongoing mission of uplifting racial and cultural connections, Busboys and Poets is hosting Palestine Week (January 18 through January 25, 2024). This week-long series of events will offer a diverse range of programming featuring Palestinian food, music, dance, poetry, discussions, and other enriching events. … Continued

“Places of Purpose”

“Places of Purpose”

“Busboys is a stellar example of a business invested in building it’s surrounding community…”

Wilber

COVID-19 Update

UPDATE: March 25, 2020 We have made the difficult decision to close our Brookland and Takoma locations. Delivery and pick up are currently available from all other locations from 11AM – 9 PM daily via order.busboysandpoets.com UPDATE: March 17, 2020 All DC and MD locations are offering carryout and delivery services from 11 AM – … Continued

Busboys and Poets Books Review: Brunch is Hell

Busboys and Poets Books Review: Brunch is Hell

First let’s agree that brunch at Busboys and Poets is a delight. That established, Brunch is Hell: How to Save the World by Throwing a Dinner Party (Little, Brown, and Co. $25.00), the newest book from hilarious hosts of The Dinner Party Download Brendan Francis Newman and Rico Gagliano, is certain to put “I will … Continued

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Everest Base Camp #15

The Sherpa of Sherpas Dawa is the name given to Buddhists born on Monday. In Swahili it means medicine man. In Arabic it means medicine. He’s been guiding these treks for ages. Doling out advice medicine to those who are willing to accept it. Today I am the fortunate one on the receiving end. The … Continued